Dar Es Salaam

Dar es Salaam is Tanzania’s largest city and one of East Africa’s most important ports. It is referred to affectionately as Dar. In 1974 Dodoma in the middle of the country was (somewhat absurdly) appointed the new capital of Tanzania, but most government functions remain in Dar, and it’s still Tanzania’s premier city. Dar es Salaam is an Arabic name meaning Haven of Peace. It’s hardly peaceful but rather a hustling, bustling, hot and humid seaport that you will undoubtedly pass through en route to Zanzibar, only 35Kms off the coast.
Dar was founded in 1866 by the Sultan of Zanzibar who wanted to establish a port on the mainland. The German East Africa Company challenged the Arabs in 1889 and took over Dar making it the administrative capital of the German colony. The Germans laid out a grid street system, built the railway to Morogoro, connected the town to South Africa by overland telegraph, and laid underwater electricity cables to Zanzibar. Dar passed to British control in 1916, and by the 1950s it had grown into a modern city. Today it’s a busy city of around two million people. There’s an eclectic mix of Swahili, German, Asian and British culture and architecture, reflecting its colonial past and more recent history.
Like most African cities, there are substantial contrasts between various sections of the city, from the busy central streets around the colourful Kariakoo Market, alive with the rhythm of African street life, to the tree-lined boulevards of the government and diplomatic quarters to the north.
There aren’t too many sights as such but there’s a lot of atmosphere to soak up. Life revolves around the huge harbour, where traditionally-rigged dhows slip under the bows of huge cargo ships as they skilfully navigate the waters of the port. Worth a look on the northern arm of the harbour is the bustling fish market. Every morning the dhows sail in to offload the night’s catch, and yelling vendors sell an assortment of seafood from giant crabs, lobster and red snapper, to more unusual items such as bluefish and sea urchins.
Wandering the streets of Dar is nowhere more rewarding than in the Asian business district, along India Street and the intersecting Indira Ghandi Street, just two blocks back from the port. The business district fans out in a series of fascinating side and main streets. Here the flavours and smells are of a little Bombay rather than Africa. You’ll find everything imaginable for sale from plastic buckets to three piece suites, though you won’t find many curios in the centre of the city. The Kariakoo Market has a colourful atmosphere and the stalls are adorned with piles of fresh fruit, flowers and Zanzibar spices.
Sights in the city centre include some reasonably interesting architecture like the German Hospital, the Lutheran Church and St Joseph’s Cathedral. You can also visit the botanical gardens and the National Museum, where archaeology buffs can see the skull of ‘Nutcracker Man’. Outside the city, there are some fabulous beaches at Oyster Bay, but if you want to do a bit of sun worshiping, pay a day entrance fee at one of the large hotels whose beaches are guarded. Sit on a public beach and you may be mugged. Oyster Bay is also the location of the upmarket shopping centres and restaurants. If you’re after souvenirs then the Makonde craft market north of Dar is the best place to go for wood carvings and Tanzanian art. Lastly, a not to be missed highlight of Dar is the Sno-Cream Ice Cream Parlour just up from the port. It has the best ice-cream in East Africa and is a veritable institute on the African overland trail. The excellent ice-cream and its air-conditioned confines are the perfect escape from the balmy heat of Dar.